Impulse control is a key aspect of creating a well-behaved, calm dog. Many dogs struggle with reacting to everything around them, but the goal of impulse control training is to help them stay composed, no matter what’s happening. Using tools like the “place” command, we can shape this behavior by guiding dogs to relax, focus, and detach from distractions.
Dogs often react quickly to stimuli without thinking—whether it’s barking at a squirrel, lunging towards another dog, or racing to the door when the bell rings. Without impulse control, these moments of excitement can quickly turn into stress or unwanted behavior. A calm mind leads to a balanced dog. By practicing impulse control, your dog learns how to pause and make thoughtful decisions, rather than reacting out of instinct.
One of the core methods we use for teaching impulse control is the “place” command. This involves teaching your dog to stay on a designated cot, bed, or mat until released. Whether during playtime, feeding, or moments of excitement, the goal is for your dog to understand that “place” means staying still and calm, no matter what’s happening around them.
To help dogs build discipline, I often place all my dogs on cots, calling them one by one for treats or play. The others are expected to stay in place, regardless of what’s happening around them. This teaches them to control their impulses and to focus on me until they are released. Mastering this exercise builds trust and respect between owner and dog and reinforces a calm state of mind.
A dog with strong impulse control is calmer, more reliable in high-energy environments, and better at understanding when it’s time to be playful and when to relax. This kind of control helps prevent common issues such as leash reactivity, door dashing, and excessive barking.
Let’s address the elephant in the room—enforcement. Yes, physical force is sometimes necessary. Just like in any physical interaction (sports, nature, and even lovemaking), physical communication pre-dominantly dictates the outcomes. This is not about ego or being dominant, or forcing your dog to do something that isn’t looking out for their overall well-being—this is about guidance, and love.
When we force our pet to stay inside, and not run out our front door into the street, it’s not because we want to dominate them, it’s to keep them from getting run over by a car or something else that can harm them. If a small uncomfortable to watch and uncomfortable to perform correction from a prong collar, or a slight muscle contraction from an e-collar conveys this rule to my dog and protects them, I will much prefer it over; my dog laying dead in the street with only my emotions of “I’ve never made my dog feel any pain and I hired a positive only trainer to comfort me”. All the naysayers and Nancie’s can criticize me all they want all while holding on to their highly volatile, reactive, unstable, overly entitled dogs who can’t be taken out in public or introduced to any other animal or person.
You haven’t set the proper expectations and enforcement allowing your dog to become overstimulated by their surroundings. Pulling is a symptom of too much excitement and a lack of focus on you.
Start by setting expectations before you even leave the house. Focus on calm mental energy, and use reinforcement strategies during the walk.
Abuse is not parenting your dog in a way that gives them the abilities they need to properly navigate the world they live in. Abuse is not acknowledging and confronting bad behavior because you’ve prioritized your dogs emotional or physical comfort over their character, causing yourself to in-turn become frustrated taking it out on your dog some other way in the confines of the relationship. Negative enforcement is utilizing physical force to properly teach your dog rules and boundaries that enrich your relationship with them, and that keeps them safe. Negative enforcement is never about getting angry or relieving frustration on your dog. Negative enforcement is never about causing pain or punishing your dog.
Pulling on the leash is often a result of a dog being overstimulated and unfocused on the owner. To address this, it’s essential to set clear expectations and reinforce them with training techniques such as positive reinforcement (rewards for calm walking) and, when necessary, proper use of corrections to guide them back to focus.
A 6-foot, 3/8″ slip lead or a prong collar is recommended for strong, confident pullers. Harnesses are great if your dog is pulling a sled, and gentle leaders are ideal if your goal is to put undue pressure on your dog’s cervical spine. Hope you catch the sarcasm!
Start training in a quiet, controlled environment, and encourage your dog to follow you around while being focused on you. Reward good behavior immediately with treats and praise to build a positive association, and redirect their attention anytime they become distracted with the least amount of leash pressure, and initiate a come command. Gradually introduce distractions to strengthen their focus. Rinse, and Repeat.
You first have to start off with the right foundation and only expand the walk when the performance and success are present. Do not walk down the street if you’re not able to walk into the front yard properly. You simply expand the foundation and make it more challenging. If your dog does become fixated on something, your goal, your job, is to regain their focus on your utilizing all the tools in your toolbox.
The goal is always the same. Your dog’s job is always the same. Your job is always the same. Whether your’e wanting to take your dog to an outdoor restaurant, or you need to go through an airport, its always the same. Master that, then change the situation.
Walking your dog is more than just physical exercise—it’s a mental game. The more you focus on your dog’s mental state, the better your walks will be. Remember, calmness is key, and a balanced approach between reinforcement tools (both positive and negative) will set you and your dog up for leash-walking success.